AFTER THE FLOOD
I AM looking for the big birds this morning but they are not there. The waters are still there a little but that’s splendid. Wetlands it is. Traffic is back on Coldstream Street. I rather liked the boats and the young newspaper boy delivering on his pushbike through axle deep water.
Time for some reflection.
ULMARRA
| BROLGAS IN THE BACKYARD | Commercial Hotel beer garden Ulmarra |
The floods have receded.2 black cows are munching on grass over the way where only last week the inland sea covered the paddocks. The BIg Birds are about as well. I do not think I have ever seen a brolga before but the grey birds on the water back and front of the house certainly seem to be brolgas. 8 of them. Almost as tall as Kate and me. There is a pair of jabiru as well.
The clearing of the water has meant we could walk to the Village and take coffee at the COMEMRCIAL HOTEL. Open 7 days a week for breakfast and lunch with dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. We joined the recovering flood people at the huge wooden table on the bank of the Clarence. The Chef was out of vegie patties following 3 days closed due to floodwaters but whipped us up a vegetable pasta as easy as and it was delicious. Main Course app $16. Coffee $4.
THE WATERS HAVE BEGUN TO RECEDE
Now that looks hopeful doesn’t it? The water has cleared the 8th step back and front. The white marker on the front fence is cleared and many water birds are finding dry-ish spots to rest awhile. Over the road, the working man took a moment to choose between boat and truck. Boat still won – but I do believe the waters are receding.
I am not sure it is WATER remaining under my house. It looks sinister. Scrubby tells us his lady is stuck in Yamba and Jenny reports the same of her daughter. Today helicopters have been passing over low all day with big bales of what I presume to be hay or somesuch.
Late afternoon and the road is reappearing at the front.
A softness of light is on the countryside and a quietness with very little traffic about. Izzy rang Andrew down at the shops and he says the Charade is fine parked out front. Perhaps tomorrow I shall be able to leave the house – albeit with a reluctance to re-enter “ the world out there”.
DAY 6
The water is still up and had risen during the night. A young man passing in a boat has informed me that the Coldstream is flowing. That appears to be a very good thing. I am weary of looking down our tumbledown steps into black and slow rising waters.
I am however, still delighted to be sitting at the attic window watching boats on the street and a vast lake before me.
ULMARRA NOW AND THEN.
The first mention I have found of ULMARRA and FLOODS in the same newspaper articles is the one below from 1859.
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3720740
The Moreton Bay Courier Wednesday 16 February 1859,
Most of the land put up for sale was very low and swampy, and at a considerable distance back from the river, with no high land to retreat to in case of floods ; from this cause the biddings were very languid, and two thirds of the lots were passed by, few of which are suitable for selection.
In 1860, Gentlemen were visiting Ulmarra with plans to join this area with QUEENSLAND. That would have been a very good thing for Queensland, so it would.
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3717818
The Moreton Bay Courier
Thursday 27 September 1860
___________________________________________
The Moreton Bay Courier Tuesday 2 October 1860.
CLARENCE RIVER.-The Clarence and Richmond Examiner of the 18th. instant, speaking of the Clarence River gold-fields, says that the Upper Tooloom seems at present to be the favourite spot. All the diggers on the spot allow that there is plenty of gold, and that even the settlement itself is one large patch, the whole of which would pay for washing. For about £200 water could be easily brought, which would give employment to a thousand diggers. A company formed for that purpose would soon realise a fortune. The impression seems to be that, considering the area worked, this field is one of the richest in the colony.
Parties of four and five wash out 1000 ozs. in three months. There are about 150 diggers at work hore, some of whom have been very successful; one party netting each man £1500 in three months ; and another party 1000 ounces in four months, and other parties of five 1000 ounces to 1500 ounces in six months. Lower Tooloom is worked by about 100 diggers, most parties doing well. Elden’s claim turns out 1 lb. of gold per day. Two stores and one public house appear to be doing well. Joe’s Gully is almost deserted in consequence of the wet, but that large deposits of gold yet remain is quite certain ; and probably the large nugget sold for £600 is but a sample of what yet remains. At Ulmarra the crops of wheat arc progressing favourably. The brush ground wheat, though presenting a more luxuriant appearance than the forest land, is not likely to yield such a good crop. The land sown with wheat, in the parish of Ulmarra alone, is not less than 600 acres. Two years since the land was a forest, in all the uncultivated wildness of nature.
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article834204
The South Australian Advertiser
Tuesday 21 May 1861
The families brought in from the low lands have been provided with shelter in an empty house, kindly placed at their disposal by Mr. F. Timlin, and by the assistance of other residents. It is almost unnecessary to add that the torrent of water down the river was sweeping cattle, corn, and everything in its course.
The loss to the settlers on the river and its environs, consequent upon this second flood, must be very great ; occasioning, among the poorer classes, such distress and loss as months of hard toil will not replace.
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1281717
The Brisbane Courier
Wednesday 8 November 1865
A TRIP UP THE CLARENCE BY THE REV DR LANG.
From the stoppage of the works at the Clarence breakwater; while the vote for them is still unexhausted, as well as from what I afterwards saw, both on the river and in the district generally, I would suggest that this portion of the territory should be designated, by way of short title, The Neglected District.
Thc next stopping place on the river is Ulmarra, about four miles from Grafton. This is a regular agricultural and maize growing settlement, of which the population has been gradually increasing, principally by arrivals from the Hunter and the Manning rivers, during the five years that have elapsed since my last visit to these regions. We got up to tho Company’s wharf, at Grafton, about half-past 7 p.m. of the 12th, it being then quite dark.
FLOODS DAY 5 ?
Woke to a sunny day. and blue skies. AND a LAKE of our very own. I did want a house right on the river and I have it – for this week anyways.
FLOODS DAY 3 or is it DAY 4 ?
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http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1257850 (From the Clarence and Richmond Examiner, April 5. 1864) Rain, rain, nothing but rain, rendering the before it. Such has been the Clarence River of late. |
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INTO another day. I woke with the yard water free. Now, as the day passes, it comes at us from the South and has just crossed the road. An inland sea of water. |
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Thank God for next door neighbours and local villagers, once again. I watch their faces and their actions. They tell us about 2001 and I tell them about Bellingen and Iz watches and learns. Water has been one of his “things” he tells me. Today he is the one down there in cold water and getting provisions in. He has a large stick to flick off the power if the water rises that high. |
Iz replaced the letterbox on the fence post. No mail today due to its being Saturday. Yesterday a wee lad on a pushbike delivered the papers. Undeterred was he. After the Iz fixed the letterbox which we found underwater yesterday, he took a walk down to the Village to see what was happening and to check on the Charade. |
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The house above is just over the road and to the left. Morning of May 23 2009. |
Morning May 23 2009. |
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5.08pm. Dark and flooded. Fire Brigade went by a moment ago in the big truck. The road is under and it is eerily silent. Piles of cow dung are floating by. The power has stayed on and there are lights , dim spots of light here and there in the houses which are standing in this inland sea. |
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The cars are still in their parking places at Swan Creek and at the Firies. The levee didn’t breach during last night but now the water rises silently and steadily across the paddocks. I have found records of other floods in the NATIONAL DIGITISED NEWSPAPERS of the NLA. See Below. Old Floods from other times. Kati B is again trapped in at Valery and one elderly gentleman was found dead in his submerged car at Raleigh. |
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7.19pm Dark now with waters lapping. They don’t seem to have risen much since dark. Still lapping 8 steps down – back and front. Winds have risen and it is eerie. We thought for a moment we would be sleeping and retreating to the Attic. |
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| These are the front steps earlier in the day. The water is a lot dirtier now. | |
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Wonder whether there will be live Music at the Wide River Cafe in Ulmarra tomorrow? |
FROM RTA NSW.
OVERTOPPING THE LEVEE AT KEMPSEY 12.04 PM SATURDAY
Started at 22/05/09 6:55am
UPDATED 10:39am
PACIFIC HIGHWAY – VARIOUS LOCATIONS
ADVERSE WEATHER – FLOODING
Initial report
Lanes closed:
Both directions – All
RTA advice:
Exercise caution
Other advice:
The highway is closed between Ballina and Grafton and at Frederickton, north of Kempsey.
Started at 21/05/09 10:36am
UPDATED 7:18am
DORRIGO – WATERFALL WAY at DORRIGO MOUNTAIN
ADVERSE WEATHER – FLOODING
Initial report
Lanes closed:
Both directions – All
RTA advice:
Avoid the area, Use alternative route
Other advice:
The road is currently closed between Bellingen and Raleigh. There is no access from the Pacific Highway.
Started at 21/05/09 6:35pm
UPDATED 6:48pm
LAWRENCE – ULMARRA AND BLUFF POINT FERRIES
ADVERSE WEATHER – HEAVY RAIN
Confirmed
Lanes closed:
Both directions – All
Impact:
Significant
RTA advice:
Use alternative route
____________________________________
OLD FLOODS.
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1257850
The Brisbane Courier Wednesday 13 April 1864,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3162000
Courier (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 12 March 1863,
THE" FLOODS- IN-THE- CLARENCE
AND RICHMOND DISTRICTS.
Tub Clarence and Richmond Examiner,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3463181
FLOODS IN THE CLARENCE AND RICHMOND. (FROM OUR OWN CORRESPONDENT.) January 28.
The Brisbane Courier Wednesday 9 February 1887, page 6
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3462763
The Brisbane Courier Saturday 29 January 1887
Further news from Grafton respecting the
floods in the Clarence River is to the effect that several houses were swept away at Ulmarra
and Copmanhurst.
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3515295
The Brisbane Courier Tuesday 18 March 1890
The Presbyterian Church at Ulmarra was shifted bodily and placed in an unsafe condition, necessitating rebuilding
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3561450
The Brisbane Courier Friday 16 June 1893
On Saturday a resident of
Ulmarra lost seventeen head of fat cattle by one stroke of lightning.
Northern Territory Times Friday 24 February 1928
Ulmarra
A third flood in the Clarence within a
week occurred and our huge pastoral
and agricultural lands again covered
by floodwaters. Boats under police
supervision and manned by voluntary
crews have been out daily removing
families from flooded homes and
taking food to people who are isolated.
RECURRING FLOODS. THIRD IN CLARENCE RIVER. Rescue Work in Boats. ULMARRA.
Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Friday 24 February 1928, page 16. News 458 words
The Canberra Times Wednesday 31 March 1954
MACLEAN, Tuesday. I
"Floods can be prevented on
the Clarence River," Federal
Minister for Health, Sir Earle
Page, said to-day.Sir Earle was addressing a
meeting of the Clarence Valleywomen’s flood-control committee.
He said a dam could be built
at the Clarence Gorge to hold
any flood likely to sweep down
the river. ‘"The dam proposed by experts is a dual purpose dam,"
Sir Earle told the meeting.It would prevent floods, and
the water stored in it could be
used for power production.The continual run of water down the river would tend to keep the channel clear and lessen dredging operations.
"With the completion of the northern breakwater and other port works at Iluka, expert opinion is that many of the present shallows will be permanently deepened," he said.
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article2785972
The Canberra Times Tuesday 27 June 1950,
Frederick Ayres, 35, -was drowned at Ulmarra
_______________________________________
BELOW: 1948.
___________________________________________
MAJOR FLOOD WARNING
FOR CLARENCE RIVER
Issued at 4:05 PM on Saturday the 23rd of May 2009
Flood Warning Number: 15
The Clarence River at Grafton peaked near 7.4 metres around 5:30 am this morning [23/05/09] with major flooding. The Clarence River at Ulmarra peaked near 5.8 metres around 10:30 am [23/06/09]. Major flood peaks will occur at Maclean later today.
Predicted River Heights/Flows:
Maclean - peak near 3.3 metres around 7:30 pm (23/05/09) with major flooding coinciding with the high tide. FloodSafe advice is available at www.ses.nsw.gov.au For emergency assistance call the SES on telephone number 132 500. For life threatening emergencies, call 000 immediately.
Weather Forecast:
For the latest weather forecast see www.bom.gov.au/weather/nsw
Next Issue:
The next warning will be issued by 7:30 pm (23/05/09).
Latest River Heights:
Nymboida R at Nymboida 8.51m rising 03:30 PM SAT 23/05/09 Boyd R at Broadmeadows 4.72m falling 03:30 PM SAT 23/05/09 Clarence R at Tabulam 5.85m steady 03:30 PM SAT 23/05/09 Clarence R at Baryulgil 7.39m falling 03:30 PM SAT 23/05/09 Mann R at Jackadgery 7.76m falling 03:30 PM SAT 23/05/09 Clarence R at Lilydale 14.04m falling 03:30 PM SAT 23/05/09 Orara R at Glenreagh 9m falling 03:30 PM SAT 23/05/09 Clarence R at Grafton (Prince St) 7.24m falling 12:15 PM SAT 23/05/09 Clarence R at Ulmarra 5.68m falling 03:30 PM SAT 23/05/09 Clarence R at Maclean 3.04m steady 03:30 PM SAT 23/05/09
ANOTHER DAY
MORE FLOODS
449 millimetres of rain fell last night at Dorrigo last night.
Australian Government Bureau of Meteorology
New South Wales
RENEWAL
MAJOR FLOOD WARNING
FOR CLARENCE RIVER
Issued at 9:44 AM on Friday the 22nd of May 2009
Flood Warning Number: 6
Up to 330 millimetres of rain has fallen in the Clarence Valley during the past
2 days to 9 am today [22/05/09]. Very heavy rain has fallen over the central
valley with up to 112 millimetres being recorded in the 6 hours to 3 am
[22/05/09].
Rain has eased in the past 6 hours to 9 am [22/05/09], however
further heavy rainfall is forecasted over the next 12-24 hours which is expected
to produce further river level rises. The situation is being closely monitored.
At this stage it is not possible to predict the flood peak because of
uncertainty over how much more rain will fall.
Predicted River Heights/Flows:
Grafton – reach 7.8 metres around midnight(22/05/09) with major flooding
Ulmarra – reach 6.1 metres around 1 am (23/05/09) with major flooding
Maclean – reach 3.3 metres around 6 pm (23/05/09) with major flooding
FIRST WEEK IN ULMARRA
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The adventure continues. Well then, we are moved in to Ulmarra and I have proceeded to Armidale for the birthday and back over the mountains to home and Rain! |
I heard the water during the night and sure enough, the yard was a couple of feet under. That meant trouble for Bertha, the fridge, who was still underneath the house due to being too heavy to bring her up without extra muscle. |
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I am finding it difficult to remain chronological about the last week because I am focussed on FLOODS and rains. We moved my car into the ancient garage which seems a little higher than the side passage. I have the ABC Local Station on and calls are coming in from all over. |
The attic is secure in its own way. |
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Kati B is also flooded in down at Valery near Bello. Scrubby up in Murwillumbah has been without power for many hours. Schools are all closed – today and tomorrow. From Tweed to Nambucca. |
There is sandbagging in Kyogle and Water coming down from the Mountains. Rural Inundation – that’s what the radio is telling us. Get supplies in and prepare for tomorrow night – so they say. |
| DELAY NON ESSENTIAL TRAVEL. | That means you ! O Garbage Bin ! Where has the Red One gone to ? |
| The shed is a sieve and the car is in there. | Best take to my bed – and trust. |
ULMARRA
I don’t know a lot about ULMARRA as yet. With tomorrow seeing me resident, I shall soon be learning more about it.
I am checking out obscure links.
http://www.cathchurch.net/nsw/parish/Cowper.htm
http://www.broomshead.com/local.html
http://www.peacebus.com/CyanideWatch/061010CyanideWalk.html
http://cs.nga.gov.au/Detail.cfm?IRN=177259
http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=242957&search=steamships&images=&c=&s=
http://www.clarence.nsw.gov.au/cmst/cvc009/lp.asp?cat=246
http://www.clarence.nsw.gov.au/cmst/cvc009/view_doc.asp?id=4322&cat=246
http://cemindex.arkangles.com/cemetery-inscriptions.php?id=361
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~rwjau/photos.html
http://www.clarencetourism.com/attractions_heritagetrail.htm
http://www.members.westnet.com.au/randall.art/
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/meetings/Aus2003
IMAGES OF ARMIDALE
Armidale as seen through my eyes and the MOB’s and Kati B’s, with some from Grandpa.
JIM BELSHAW AND THE ROMANCE OF ARMIDALE.
http://newenglandaustralia.blogspot.com/2009/05/belshaws-world-selling-armidales.html
I am en route for Ulmarra and the Clarence tomorrow. In the Charade with the Computers. Ulmarra is an “historical river port” and Grafton retains many of its early buildings. I intend to do some Adventuring into Retrospectives. The Big River it is called. THE Big River. Friday I take the train to Urunga and then drive with my Girl, Kati B, up Dorrigo Mountain to Armidale to celebrate The Poppy’s 5th Birthday. Take a look at Jim Belshaw’s Blogs for other views of the New England.
http://belshaw.blogspot.com/2009/05/north-coast-memories-ss-fitzroy.html
THE DAY BEFORE MOVING
MAYORS AND THINGS
Read last week in the local Tweed papers about the Tweed mayor’s delight in the Planned development of Bay Street, Tweed Heads and her desire to see Tweed developed along the lines of KIAMA down South. Looks like she is in luck, because a former Mayor of Kiama, Neville Fredericks, was sighted just this week in Murwillumbah with what looked like the Board of the Satya Sai School dining at Luffley Cafe.
Carool, Kunghur, Tyalgum,Tweed Heads – they could all be in luck.
THE BLACK BEAR CAFE IN BELLINGEN
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I am moving South. I woke this morning and thought of the changes coming. Then the BLACK BEAR CAFE came to mind. Our local cafe in Ulmarra will be the MULBERRY COURT CAFE. That’s me in the Gazebo at Mulberry Court last year. I shall show some more images of Ulmarra later. This morning its the BLACK BEAR CAFE on my mind. |
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Back to Bellingen. That’s app 100 kms south of Ulmarra. I married in Bellingen and my kids were born there. Years back, my daughter, Kati B, did her work experience at a wee cafe there. BOILING BILLY it was called. Last year we took Izzy there. Boiling Billy has now become the baby of Sophie and Dave. Kate worked with Sophie in BADDE MANNERZ in Glebe. |
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The BOILING BILLY is now re-named THE BLACK BEAR. The morning thinking was that I shall be in range of BLACK BEAR visits. That’s the Church Street Cafe strip. My sister married Mark at the Courthouse opposite back in the 1970s. I have many memories of CHURCH STREET. When Tony Bahles and I opened the WHITE ROSE TRADING COMPANY in Urunga early in the 1970s, THE GOOD FOOD SHOP opened in Bello and was in CHRUCH STREET till quite recently. The HIPPIES we were. I also note that the Re=Mains are playing at BELLO BOWLO on MAY 15 prior to a CANADIAN tour. |
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That’s Sophie in the background clearing the table after an Izzy Meal. Izzy is a specialist in eating out and mugoccino drinking. Wish I had a menu to put up but that will have to wait till I am moved South. I shall look for a picture of the Bear itself. I have some hidden in my hard drive. |
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There we are.THE BLACK BEAR. |
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| Next week I am expecting to be there. |
- OTHER BELLO LINKS
- PIP WILSON BLOG
- http://coffsbug.blogspot.com/













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